{"id":30663,"date":"2019-02-07T04:00:59","date_gmt":"2019-02-07T09:00:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=30663"},"modified":"2019-02-21T18:24:35","modified_gmt":"2019-02-21T23:24:35","slug":"montana-ranchers-are-kicking-up-dust-to-bring-back-country-of-origin-labels-on-meat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2019\/02\/07\/montana-ranchers-are-kicking-up-dust-to-bring-back-country-of-origin-labels-on-meat\/","title":{"rendered":"Montana Ranchers are Kicking Up Dust to Bring Back Country of Origin Labels on Meat"},"content":{"rendered":"

When Jeanie Alderson looks at the big picture of ranching in Montana, the numbers just don\u2019t add up. For generations, it was a state where the owners of small and medium-sized independent ranches like hers could make a living grazing cattle on the wide-open prairie. But now, she said, \u201cpeople have two or three other jobs to support the habit of ranching.\u201d<\/p>\n

Alderson (pictured above) and her family raise grass-finished cattle that they sell directly to consumers<\/a> as well as calves that get shipped to feedlots in states like Kansas and Nebraska, where they are fattened on corn, and then sold into the conventional market. She\u2019s also part of a coalition of ranchers and local groups, including the Montana Cattlemen\u2019s Association<\/a> and the Northern Plains Resource Council<\/a>, that are working to bring back country of origin labeling (COOL) in Montana for beef and pork\u2014with an eye toward impacting the national conversation about how cheap, imported meat is effecting the nation\u2019s remaining independent ranchers.<\/p>\n

A federal COOL law went into effect in 2013, but was revoked in 2016 after a ruling<\/a> by the World Trade Organization (WTO) and a subsequent decision<\/a> by the U.S. Congress after\u00a0lobbing from the Big Four meat packers<\/a>. Shortly thereafter, the market for domestic beef dropped<\/a> for a number of reasons. But ranchers in Montana have tied the shift to the fact that consumers could no longer differentiate meat that came from animals that were raised in the U.S. from those that were imported. One reason is a loophole that allows beef and pork from outside the country to carry a “Product of the USA” label if it has been processed here.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt’s really confusing to customers and it’s not fair,\u201d said Alderson.<\/p>\n

Earlier this week, Montana state senator Albert Olszewski introduced a bill<\/a> that would bring back a modified version of COOL for beef and pork sold within the state. Rather than require labeling directly on the meat\u2019s packaging, however, the lawmaker hopes to circumnavigate the original WTO ruling\u2014which essentially said that COOL required too much paperwork, and thus violated free trade laws and discouraged American processors from buying foreign meat\u2014by requiring a placard to be placed wherever the meat is sold in the state.<\/p>\n

The hope, said Jim Baker, president of the Montana Cattlemen\u2019s Association<\/a>, is to \u201ctry to get the dust stirred up here, so we can get the conversation going about getting [COOL] back on a national level.\u201d And while the odds of pushing COOL labeling forward\u2014and providing more consumer transparency in the state\u2014are looking good in the Republican-controlled state senate, the bill also includes language that could get pushback from some consumers. In addition to clarifying and defining many aspects of the production chain, the bill also seeks to define \u201cmeat\u201d for marketing purposes, an effort to protect the livestock industry from competition from the emerging cell-based protein industry.<\/p>\n

The Value of a Label<\/h4>\n

The United States imported<\/a> over 3 billion pounds of beef in 2016, or around one-tenth of what the country consumed that year. Whether it comes from Canada, Australia, or Uruguay, imported beef tends to cost less<\/a> than beef produced in the U.S. And yet, Alderson points out, most customers aren\u2019t paying less for imported beef at the grocery store.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt’s pretty clear that imports are undermining our market. If we had COOL labeling, consumers would be able to pay attention and choose a product that was born and raised in the U.S.,\u201d Alderson said. \u201cWe’re not saying, \u2018Don’t bring in those imports.\u2019 Bring them in, but label them so people have the choice.\u201d<\/p>\n

Baker describes the dramatic drop in price he saw after the disappearance of country of origin labeling disappeared. \u201cWhen COOL was in effect, you got like $2.15 a pound for your live animal; a feeder calf is 750 pounds, so he [was] worth about $1,500 dollars. Then it dropped to around $1.50 a pound, so he was down to just a hair over a thousand.\u201d<\/p>\n

Most cow-calf producers make all their income for the entire year on a single day\u2014the day they sell their animals to the feedlot. When the price in the area dropped by a dollar a pound, said Baker, a semi-truck load of cattle\u2014typically weighing 63,000 pounds\u2014brought in around $60,000 less than the year before.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn a little community like ours, in some cases that [price] difference would make [a difference in whether] people could pay their bills and stay on ranches\u2014or not,\u201d said Alderson.<\/p>\n

What the Bill Would Do<\/h4>\n

The placards Senator Olszewski and his allies have proposed provide three options for labeling. \u201cIf you can verify that your meat was born, raised, and processed in the United States\u2014that’s what the placard will say,\u201d Olszewski told Civil Eats. The other two options are “processed in the United States\u201d and “processed outside of the United States.”<\/p>\n

The original draft of the bill included the phrase, \u201corigin unknown\u201d for the latter, but Olszewski said it met pushback from the Montana Stock Growers Association and the Montana Farmers Bureau. \u201cThe big gorilla in the room are packers and the feedlot people,\u201d said Olszewski, who added that the current draft required negotiation with both groups.<\/p>\n

Whether or not consumers will register or understand the difference between the proposed labels is a lingering question. Olszewski acknowledges that some consumers will want more information. But he sees the labels as a worthwhile first step in a longer-term effort. \u201cThe goal is to take a very diverse group of stakeholders\u2014people who are very passionate about this\u2014and find some way to create an infrastructure that everybody can learn to develop confidence in and to trust it,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

Gilles Stockton<\/a>, another cow-and-calf ranch operator and member of the Northern Plains Resource Council, worked to get a state-level version of COOL passed in 2005 that ultimately expired before it went into effect because the federal bill took hold. And he\u2019s back at it, in hopes of bringing back a set of rules that had wide-ranging appeal in the state at the time. \u201cWe\u2019re going at it again,\u201d he told Civil Eats. He also thinks the bill has a chance of moving forward and becoming law again.<\/p>\n

\u201cMost rural Montanans vote Republican, but not necessarily corporate Republican,\u201d he said. \u201cAnd that\u2019s reflected in the Montana legislature. Ranchers across the board understand the history and see [COOL] as important to their livelihood.\u201d The larger challenge, Stockton adds, has been reaching consumers, who also have a big stake in seeing their meat labeled by country of origin, but often have a hard time wrapping their brain around the complexities of the global supply chain.<\/p>\n

\"Gilles

For Jeanie Alderson, selling grass-fed beef direct to sustainability-minded consumers has really brought that fact home. An estimated 70 percent<\/a> of the grass-fed beef sold in this country is imported, and many consumers appear to prioritize what they see as the nutritional benefits over supporting domestic producers.<\/p>\n

Both Stockton and Alderson also point to the fact that everything else Americans eat is currently labeled by its country of origin. \u201cIf labeling beef and pork is trade illegal, then what about the labeling of all of these other things?\u201d asked Stockton. \u201cWhy isn’t there a big push from other global corporations to eliminate all country of origin labeling? They don’t seem to be concerned about it, they’re living with it just fine.\u201d<\/p>\n

Defining Meat<\/h4>\n

Part five of the proposed Montana bill includes a definition<\/a> of meat as \u201cedible flesh of livestock or poultry\u201d and proposes calling cellular meat replacements “cell-cultured edible products.\u201d Both efforts, advocates say, are part of an effort to promote truth in labeling.<\/p>\n

As the first cellular meat is expected to hit restaurants by the end of this year<\/a> and both the USDA and U.S. FDA are working on a plan<\/a> to regulate its commercial sales, several states have begun crafting similar policies. The first of such bills passed<\/a> in Missouri last May, and another was withdrawn<\/a> in Nebraska last month.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re trying to be proactive in pointing out that cellular-based proteins need to have their own special name,\u201d said Stockton. \u201cIf you take beef cells and grow them in a culture in a vat of liquid, you shouldn’t probably call it beef.\u201d Olszewski echoes this sentiment. \u201cI’m sure we\u2019ll be able to come up with a name that sounds just as tasty as meat,\u201d he added.<\/p>\n

According to Jessica Almy, director of policy for Good Food Institute<\/a>, a nonprofit industry group that promotes both plant-based and cellular meat alternatives from both the animal welfare and environmental perspectives, keeping terms like \u201cmeat\u201d and bacon\u201d off labels of cellular products will cause consumer confusion and could be dangerous for those with meat allergies.<\/p>\n

GFI is one of several plaintiffs in a lawsuit<\/a> that challenges the Missouri bill on the basis of free speech. \u201cWe oppose restrictions on cell-based meat that would censor food labels and make it an unlevel playing field. Our goal is to make sure that these products are able to compete against the products of conventional animal agriculture so that consumers are the ones who are deciding the winners and the losers in the marketplace,\u201d said Almy.<\/p>\n

And while ranchers like Stockton and Baker oppose the development of cellular meats, Almy points out a number of the people making decisions about the meat industry upstream don\u2019t have a problem with it. Both Cargill and Tyson, for instance, have invested in Memphis Meats<\/a>, a cell-based meat-industry darling. \u201cMany conventional companies are positioning themselves as protein companies and trying to ensure that they can feed a growing world population,\u201d said Almy.<\/p>\n

Of course, ranchers like Alderson, Baker, and Stockton are less interested in the big meat company\u2019s bottom line than they are in their own ability to compete and stay afloat.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis is a story about beef, but it\u2019s also about our democracy,\u201d said Alderson. \u201cIf we’re going to have economic prosperity, if we’re going to take care of our land and our water and our farmers and ranchers, we need to know where all of our food is really coming from.\u201d<\/p>\n

Stockton adds that while country of origin labeling is an important part of restoring competitive markets in the livestock industry, there\u2019s a real danger that its benefits have been oversold in many people\u2019s minds. \u201cCOOL alone won\u2019t reform the markets\u2014to really do that, we\u2019ll really need antitrust actions,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

The Montana bill is expected to come up for a vote later this spring.<\/p>\n

<\/div><\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When Jeanie Alderson looks at the big picture of ranching in Montana, the numbers just don\u2019t add up. For generations, it was a state where the owners of small and medium-sized independent ranches like hers could make a living grazing cattle on the wide-open prairie. 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