{"id":31262,"date":"2019-04-29T04:00:24","date_gmt":"2019-04-29T09:00:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=31262"},"modified":"2022-03-18T15:59:58","modified_gmt":"2022-03-18T22:59:58","slug":"does-your-food-label-guarantee-fair-farmworkers-rights-this-one-does","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2019\/04\/29\/does-your-food-label-guarantee-fair-farmworkers-rights-this-one-does\/","title":{"rendered":"Does Your Food Label Guarantee Fair Farmworkers\u2019 Rights? This One Does."},"content":{"rendered":"

There\u2019s an ever-growing preponderance of \u201ceco-labels\u201d in the food marketplace\u2014203 in the U.S. alone<\/a>, by one count. Inspired by an \u201cincreased demand for \u2018green\u2019 products,\u201d according to a 2014 study in the Journal of Business Ethics<\/em><\/a>, these labels alert consumers to everything from animal welfare to whether the food was grown without chemicals, GMOs, or harm to forests and birds. American consumers can seek out a fair trade label ensuring the well-being of banana and coffee growers and communities in Southeast Asia, South America, or Africa. But very few labels make such claims for food workers here in the United States.<\/p>\n

One organization bucking this trend is the Agricultural Justice Project<\/a> (AJP), a non-profit in Gainesville, Florida, that\u2019s committed to the fair treatment of workers all along the food chain. AJP has been offering worker-justice-related certification and labeling since 2011, before the Equitable Food Initiative<\/a> or Fair Trade USA (FTUSA) dipped their toes into the domestic arena<\/a>, certifying their first farms here in 2014 and 2016 respectively.<\/p>\n

\"Agricultural

Last November, AJP granted certification to its sixth business, Grafton, New York-based Soul Fire Farm,<\/a>\u00a0whose co-founder Leah Penniman recently received a Leadership Award from the James Beard Foundation<\/a>\u00a0for her commitment to tackling racism in the food system. AJP\u2019s rigorous audit can be daunting, and its label is largely unknown to consumers. So, the decision to get certified was not a decision that Soul Fire\u2019s founders took lightly. A firm belief in the concept, and a desire to see more farms engage in the process, convinced them to put in the time and effort.<\/p>\n

\u201cAs thought leaders who are becoming more of a recognizable name, part of doing this certification was to say, ‘we believe in the values this represents,’ and to uplift the process,\u201d says Soul Fire\u2019s co-director, Larisa Jacobson.<\/p>\n

\"Most

Certainly, more farmers, food workers, and consumers are likely to now learn about AJP through Soul Fire\u2019s connection to it. As a result, it\u2019s possible more farms and food business will deem AJP certification a worthy pursuit, and more consumers will seek out its label. But the label is not AJP\u2019s stand-alone goal. Much of the organization\u2019s heavy lifting occurs behind the scenes, where it seeks to influence discussions about food worker rights in ways often less visible than its quiet (for the moment) third-party certification scheme.<\/p>\n

Behind the Scenes<\/h4>\n

Farm work ranks as one of the most exploitative and dangerous jobs of the 21st century, responsible in the U.S. for the second-highest number of deaths in 2017<\/a> (260) after truck driving. About 20,000 workers on American farms contract acute pesticide poisoning<\/a> every year. Additionally, since many farm workers are migrants, they\u2019re exempt from labor laws meant to protect against wage theft, poor living conditions, and poor treatment\u2014including physical and sexual abuse\u2014according to a report by fair-trade nonprofit Fair World Project<\/a>. Similar dangers exist in restaurants, too, and in grocery stores.<\/p>\n

Leah Cohen, AJP\u2019s general coordinator, first cottoned to the cause at the root of the organization\u2019s mission after driving a mobile dental clinic around migrant worker camps in Oregon. \u201cI thought I was making a difference, but as I started to peel back the layers, I realized a dental van doesn\u2019t do anything [about] the pesticide-drenched earth, holes in unheated [residential] shacks, living in fear of being separated from your family and deported, or wage theft,\u201d she says. \u201cLikewise, it\u2019s not going to do anything for farmers who can\u2019t make enough to cover the cost of production, regardless of whether they pay a working wage to their employees.\u201d<\/p>\n

These issues were top of mind for AJP\u2019s five founders from the beginning<\/a>. Elizabeth Henderson, who\u2019s also a founding member of the Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA), currently sits on AJP\u2019s board. She and her collaborators fought to write worker rights into the fabric of the USDA\u2019s National Organic Program. When they failed, in 1999, they decided to write up their own standards. They intensively researched the issue and reached out to a wide swath of stakeholders in the early aughts, conducted pilot audits in 2006 and 2007, then officially began offering certification in 2011.<\/p>\n

Still, the certification process\u2014which Henderson calls \u201cvery much against the grain\u201d\u2014is not the main point. Rather, it\u2019s the \u201cbigger impacts on the consciousness of the organic movement\u201d that is the true measure of what she and her partners set out to achieve.<\/p>\n

For example, the new Regenerative Organic Certification<\/a> (ROC), which is led by a coalition that includes the Rodale Institute, Dr. Bronner\u2019s, and Patagonia and is currently in its pilot phase, did not originally include rights for farmers in its social fairness pillar. \u201cBecause of the advocacy of our AJP team members and allies, [ROC] added farmer rights standards,\u201d says Cohen. Other examples of AJP\u2019s influence are found in the evolution of Whole Foods Market\u2019s Responsibly Grown program, Fair Trade USA\u2019s standards, and Ben & Jerry\u2019s Caring Dairy Program. \u201cThis work takes years of organizing, and sometimes results in official organizational transformation if we are patient and persistent,\u201d Cohen says.<\/p>\n

\"farmworkers

Another way change comes to pass is when farms and food businesses hire AJP to provide technical assistance to various aspects of their operations. Even though they might not make it all the way through to certification, according to Cohen, \u201cthey take bits and pieces and incorporate them to make improvements\u201d to bringing their workers into the decision-making process, for example.<\/p>\n

AJP receives grant money from ecologically conscious organizations such as Dr. Bronner\u2019s and the Clif Bar Family Foundation (CBFF). (Editor\u2019s note: Civil Eats has also received funding from CBFF.<\/em>) \u201cThere are not that many groups out there trying to create market incentives for social change in the food system, and we felt that was worth investing in,\u201d says CBFF director of programs for food systems and economics Allen Rosenfeld.<\/p>\n

Would Clif Bar also consider adopting AJP\u2019s label for its own products? \u201cOur cross-functional sustainable sourcing team has met with AJP and we continue to evaluate their certification program, as well as others that could meet our social justice goals,\u201d Clif Bar & Company communications manager Dean Mayer explained by email to Civil Eats. \u201cWe\u2019re also exploring the development of our own proprietary programs for smallholder farmers.\u201d<\/p>\n

One way or the other, with or without formal adoption of its Food Justice Certification label, AJP seems to be managing to steer the conversation toward greater worker fairness.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s in a Label?<\/h4>\n

Eco-labels pose something of a conundrum; the more of them turn up in the marketplace, the wider the so-called \u201ccredibility gap\u201d grows, as consumers struggle to understand what the labels\u2019 promises effectively mean (if anything).<\/p>\n

As the Business Ethics<\/em> study pointed out, \u201can eco-label may or may not involve an open- and consensus-based standard-setting process\u2026may or may not be under government control\u2026can be first-, second-, or third-party [certified], by verifiers who may or may not be accredited.\u201d Additionally, since \u201clabeling schemes are voluntary standards that are developed by private institutions \u2026 there is no commonly accepted legal standard\u201d for them.<\/p>\n

The confusion is compounded when it comes to social justice issues, says Magali Delmas, director of the UCLA Center for Corporate Environmental Performance<\/a> and author of The Green Bundle: Pairing the Market with the Planet<\/a><\/em>. \u201cThe question is, what is the tangible benefit, and how can we clearly convey [that] to the consumer? This is still a work in progress,\u201d she says, \u201cbecause it\u2019s more difficult to measure and communicate social impact than it is environmental [benefit].\u201d<\/p>\n

But for consumers willing to do a little independent research, this is becoming easier. Consumer Reports rates food labels on its Greener Choices site<\/a>. It calls AJP\u2019s Food Justice Certification, conducted by third-party certified entities accredited in organics, \u201chighly meaningful,\u201d and confirms that its standards set a high bar.<\/p>\n

Fair World Project (FWP) published a report called Justice in the Fields<\/a> in 2016, specifically to evaluate seven farmworker justice certification labels\u2014including AJP\u2019s.<\/p>\n

\u201cLabor justice labels are important; just because something is grown organically or comes from a \u2018local\u2019 farm, that\u2019s no guarantee that the people who grew it were treated well,\u201d says FWP\u2019s executive director, Dana Geffner. Her organization gave AJP a top rating because of what it calls the meaningful impact of its standards: \u201cIt\u2019s one of the only certifications out there in the hired labor category looking to eliminate piece rate work\u201d\u2014paying per piece or per pound of produce picked rather than hourly\u2014and \u201cthey also consider all the participants in the supply chain: farmers, workers, and retailers.\u201d<\/p>\n

Higher Level Organics in Viola, Wisconsin, became the seventh AJP-certified farm<\/a> this month\u2014the first hemp producer in the world to certify as fair trade. \u201cIt\u2019s simply the right thing to do [a]s hemp production continues to rise\u2026[and] an increase in agricultural labor [becomes] necessary,\u201d founder Luke Zigovits said in a company press release.<\/p>\n

\"A

Swanton Berry Farm in Davenport, California has a union for its workers\u2014a deeper commitment to the tenets of their AJP food justice certification. For Nancy Vail and husband Jered Lawson, co-owners of Pie Ranch<\/a> in nearby Pescadero, AJP certification is deeply linked to their farm\u2019s outreach to local youth and its partnership with the Amah Mutsun Tribal Band, whose ancestors once worked the surrounding land before \u201csuffering the most outrageous trauma, genocide, and exploitation you can imagine\u201d at the hands of white colonists, says Vail.<\/p>\n

AJP certification doesn\u2019t translate into a price premium for the food Pie Ranch grows, like an organic label does, and Vail says the pore-scouring process takes an enormous time and resource toll. But, she says, \u201cWe still feel committed to staying certified, to keep the conversation alive.\u201d<\/p>\n

For Brandon Kane, general manager of the GreenStar Food Co-op<\/a> in Ithaca, New York (currently in the process of recertifying), \u201cAJP was a natural extension of expressing our values\u2014marketable proof that we are living up to our self-imposed expectations around a living wage [for our 225 employees] and supporting [over three dozen] farmers.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"The

But the cost of certification, he believes\u2014about $10,000 in GreenStar\u2019s\u2019 case\u2014is prohibitive enough to keep other National Co-op Grocers member stores around the country from following their lead. Nevertheless, Kane is hoping to approach AJP to see if it\u2019s possible to negotiate a reduced fee for a consortium of co-ops; and if there\u2019s a way to update its \u201claborious and analog\u201d process into something that could be completed online.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s still early days in Soul Fire Farm\u2019s certification, and it is yet to be seen how it will be received by the farm\u2019s customers and the 150 aspiring farmers it trains every year.<\/p>\n

As the farm\u2019s Larisa Jacobson sees it, \u201cthere is a moment now of coming into awareness about injustices in the food system, and the human elements of how it\u2019s produced.\u201d But whether the AJP label will gain traction in time to lead the charge is an open question. \u201cI definitely think that more education and awareness-raising has to happen if the label is going to have meaning to consumers and farmers,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

<\/div><\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There\u2019s an ever-growing preponderance of \u201ceco-labels\u201d in the food marketplace\u2014203 in the U.S. alone, by one count. Inspired by an \u201cincreased demand for \u2018green\u2019 products,\u201d according to a 2014 study in the Journal of Business Ethics, these labels alert consumers to everything from animal welfare to whether the food was grown without chemicals, GMOs, or […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":761,"featured_media":31275,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4479,3259,10,3262,12433],"tags":[12092,12090,12091],"coauthors":[4461],"class_list":["post-31262","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-farming","category-food-and-farm-labor","category-food-justice","category-labeling","category-regenerative-agriculture","tag-regen","tag-regenerativeagriculture","tag-regenerativeag"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDoes Your Food Label Guarantee Fair Farmworkers\u2019 Rights? 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While it's profile is set to rise, it's also making a difference in food working conditions behind the scenes.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2019\/04\/29\/does-your-food-label-guarantee-fair-farmworkers-rights-this-one-does\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Civil Eats\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Civil-Eats\/56766540637\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-04-29T09:00:24+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-03-18T22:59:58+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/190429-agricultural-justice-project-fair-trade-worker-rights-top3.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"800\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Lela Nargi\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@CivilEats\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@CivilEats\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Lela Nargi\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"10 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2019\/04\/29\/does-your-food-label-guarantee-fair-farmworkers-rights-this-one-does\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2019\/04\/29\/does-your-food-label-guarantee-fair-farmworkers-rights-this-one-does\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Lela Nargi\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/#\/schema\/person\/cff9d9781abffb99c7c8de4298596f8b\"},\"headline\":\"Does Your Food Label Guarantee Fair Farmworkers\u2019 Rights? 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