{"id":55663,"date":"2024-03-18T01:00:08","date_gmt":"2024-03-18T09:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=55663"},"modified":"2024-03-17T22:49:18","modified_gmt":"2024-03-18T06:49:18","slug":"vineyards-laying-the-groundwork-for-a-regenerative-farm-future","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/03\/18\/vineyards-laying-the-groundwork-for-a-regenerative-farm-future\/","title":{"rendered":"Vineyards Are Laying the Groundwork for a Regenerative Farm Future"},"content":{"rendered":"<\/div>

On a cold, rainy day in late February, it\u2019s hard to picture the bunches of juicy cabernet and chardonnay grapes that will decorate the Vineyards at Dodon\u2019s<\/a> neat rows of gnarled vines come summer, the fruit ripening in the hot sun. <\/p><\/div>

\n

But even during these dormant months, across 17 rolling acres just 30 miles east of Washington, D.C., the landscape is filled with life.<\/p>\n

Long, diverse grasses blanket the ground around and between the vines. In one section, two dozen vocal sheep munch happily on those plants, leaving their waste to stimulate regrowth up and down the aisles. Three acres of meadows provide habitat for insects. A petite blue bird darts across the horizon, flitting between a few of the 600 diverse young trees\u2014loblolly pines, hazelnuts, and plums among them\u2014that are just establishing themselves around and within the perimeter.<\/p>\n

This is what Tom Croghan means when he says that, \u201cunder the right conditions,\u201d grapevines are especially good at executing nature\u2019s most common magic trick: absorbing carbon dioxide from the air during photosynthesis and then depositing it far below ground, hopefully for a long while. \u201cWe can pay [to create those conditions],\u201d says Croghan, Dodon\u2019s co-owner, \u201cbecause we can use a byproduct of that system to produce wine.\u201d<\/p>\n

In other words, farmers lucky enough to produce a high-value product\u2014especially when it\u2019s intrinsically tied to the soil it’s grown in\u2014may be uniquely positioned to help experiment, develop, and de-risk regenerative practices across all kinds of farms.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf we take this as a holistic system . . . we probably shouldn’t even be looking at practices, we should be looking at outcomes, but the practices are a way to get there. Soil carbon sequestration is one indicator that we’re on the right track.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

That\u2019s the conclusion researchers came to in a study published<\/a> in Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems<\/em> earlier this year, which found that a slew of soil-building practices, especially in combination, added more carbon to soils when used in vineyards compared to being used on annual cropland.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf we take this as a holistic system . . . we probably shouldn’t even be looking at practices, we should be looking at outcomes, but the practices are a way to get there,\u201d explains researcher and study author Jessica Villat. \u201cSoil carbon sequestration is one indicator that we’re on the right track.\u201d<\/p>\n

Compared to staple crops like corn and rice, wine grapes barely occupy a speck<\/a> of the world\u2019s farmland, at about 18 million acres. As a result, carbon stored in vineyard soils won\u2019t ever add up to a meaningful reduction in global greenhouse gas emissions. But Villat and others see the fields as unique spaces where innovation can happen, spurring the ability to improve regenerative practices and increase adoption across agriculture.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe viticulture sector is notoriously one of these \u2018bubble sectors\u2019 that stays within itself and isn’t talking as much to the rest of the ag community,\u201d she said. \u201cThey\u2019re trying to solve the same problems and the same issues. We’re talking about animal integration, we’re talking about integrating trees, we’re talking about integrating other crops. It really is regenerative agriculture, even if we might take a viti<\/em>culture lens.\u201d<\/p>\n

A Model for Maximizing Soil Carbon Storage (and Other Benefits)<\/h4>\n<\/div>

Zoom in on a map<\/a> of California farms that have become Regenerative Organic Certified<\/a> (ROC) and you\u2019ll notice a theme: More than a third are vineyards. <\/p><\/div>

\n

ROC executive director Elizabeth Whitlow attributes that partially to the fact that since ROC\u2019s launch in 2017<\/a>, Paul Dolan, a pioneer<\/a> of organic, biodynamic, and regenerative winemaking in the state, chaired the organization\u2019s board. Dolan spearheaded the certification of the big-name wineries he worked with, Fetzer and Bonterra. Other lauded wineries, such as Tablas Creek<\/a> and Grgich Hills<\/a> Estate, were also early adopters of ROC standards.<\/p>\n

\u201cI do think vineyard operators are not under the same stress of harvesting kale and rushing to market five days a week, so there\u2019s a real cushion,\u201d Whitlow said. \u201cIt is a rapidly growing category.\u201d<\/p>\n

Dodon is not certified organic and still applies pesticides when needed, especially fungicides, which East Coast vineyards often rely on due to a much more humid climate than California\u2019s. But most of its other regenerative practices overlap with what ROC vineyards are doing on the West Coast: Living roots in the soil year-round, animal integration, and biodiversity boosts.<\/p>\n

Since Croghan first planted the vineyard, he said that based on soil testing, organic matter in the soil increased from .3 percent to 3.2 percent. About 60 percent of organic matter is carbon. Croghan is so proud of those results, he jokes that he introduces himself differently now.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m in the carbon capture and storage business,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Villat\u2019s research supports the general idea.<\/p>\n

In reviewing studies done to date that fit their criteria, Villat and her co-author, Kimberly Nicholas, found that many common regenerative practices\u2014such as grazing sheep<\/a> between vines, cover crops, and non-chemical pest management\u2014resulted in much more carbon sequestration in vineyards compared to in fields dedicated to annual crops.<\/p>\n

However, the number of available studies was too small to come to big conclusions about any individual practice resulting in more sequestration over another.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe actually need a lot more studies to prove those claims. However, what we are seeing is that across the board there is carbon sequestration happening,\u201d she said. \u201cSo, what we can say is that all practices sequester carbon . . . and that when you mix different practices together, it actually increases the benefits. So, there’s something to be said for a holistic view of integrating practices together.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>

\"Clover<\/a>

Clover grows among the grapevines at Dodon in August 2020. (Photo courtesy of Dodon Vineyards)<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

\n

Why exactly vineyard soils might hold onto more carbon compared to annual cropland is also a complex, open question. Villat said the soils might have started with less carbon to begin with. But the deep roots of the vines are also likely interacting with the cover crops and increased microbial activity as a result of animal waste, possibly holding it there longer. With cover crops, it could be as simple as the fact that the plants remain year-round rather than only being planted in between crop cycles, said Paul West, a senior scientist for ecosystems and agriculture at Project Drawdown<\/a>.<\/p>\n

West said that while the volume of carbon held in vineyard soils wouldn\u2019t be significant enough to affect global greenhouse gas reduction goals, he said the conclusions could be used to identify best practices that could also be used in farming other crops. They might especially apply to other shrubby perennial crops, like blueberries, but the practices are similar across agriculture. A diversified farm that is growing vegetables and raising livestock, for example, might incorporate more perennial plants into their system to encourage carbon storage in deep roots.<\/p>\n

And he pointed to other important factors for the grape growers themselves. \u201cMany of the other benefits [of these practices] in addition to [building] soil carbon likely help the health of the vineyard even more,\u201d he said. \u201cFor example, as you’re building up organic matter, the soil is able to hold a lot more nutrients. It’s able to hold a lot more water.\u201d<\/p>\n

Building Resilience in Vineyards\u2014and Beyond<\/h4>\n<\/div>

At Dodon, for example, Croghan hasn\u2019t had to irrigate in years. Of course, there\u2019s been a lot of rain<\/a>. Too much, in fact. But the healthy soil dense with living roots has also prevented the vineyard from getting muddy and inaccessible. In the past, he said, when the soil was bare between the rows, it could be three days before the team could take a tractor back out in the field after a big storm. Today, it\u2019s usually 30 minutes. <\/p><\/div>

\n

On the other coast, regenerative practices are also helping vineyards deal with hot, dry summers.<\/p>\n

In Napa in 2022, Whitlow remembered, a particularly searing heat wave hit right at harvest time. \u201cTruly, it was like biblical devastation,\u201d she said. \u201cFruit shriveled on vines, and there was a complete crop failure for many operations.\u201d At ROC vineyard Grgich Hills, where lush cover crops blanketed the ground in between vines, the team measured significantly lower temperatures just off the ground compared to a neighboring vineyard with bare soil.<\/p>\n

As the climate crisis intensifies and extreme weather events become more intense and more frequent, these practical advantages could make or break a vineyard\u2014or any farm\u2019s\u2014ability to save a single harvest and make it to the following season.<\/p>\n

\"Harvesting<\/a>

Grape harvest photo courtesy of Dodon.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n

For example, Croghan is currently focused on pests called sharpshooters, which have been given a boost by rising temperatures. While a few days of cold-enough temperatures can kill off the population before grape season begins, fewer of those days come around. The sharpshooter drills and deposits bacteria into vines, causing the devastating Pierce\u2019s Disease. At a recent gathering of winemakers in the region, the majority reported they already had sharpshooters in their vineyards, and Croghan was anxiously anticipating their arrival.<\/p>\n

A more traditional-leaning agriculture consultant advised Croghan to mow down his grasses to destroy potential habit the sharpshooters might live in. He was resistant, since he\u2019d already put in so much time building up that habitat to accommodate insects that like to eat other pests, and the meadows that will bloom in a few months host crucial pollinators, providing countless other ecosystem benefits beyond the vines. Instead of chopping it all down, Croghan is betting on the whole regenerative system working in his favor, from carbon-holding roots up to the insects flying above ground.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re gonna stick to our guns,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

If it works and his vineyard is better able to manage the pest pressure with its cover crops in place, in the future, other farmers could benefit from his willingness to take the risk.<\/p>\n

As Villat says, \u201cThe nice thing I think about viticulture is that, it\u2019s not always the case, but often you have farmers who can . . . innovate, do something a little bit differently.\u201d<\/p>\n

<\/div><\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

But even during these dormant months, across 17 rolling acres just 30 miles east of Washington, D.C., the landscape is filled with life. Long, diverse grasses blanket the ground around and between the vines. In one section, two dozen vocal sheep munch happily on those plants, leaving their waste to stimulate regrowth up and down […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":740,"featured_media":55673,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4146,4479,12433,11114],"tags":[],"coauthors":[4440],"class_list":["post-55663","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climate","category-farming","category-regenerative-agriculture","category-water"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nVineyards Are Laying the Groundwork for a Regenerative Farm Future | Is the Future of Vineyards Regenerative?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A new study finding that regenerative practices build more soil carbon in vineyards points to a path for the industry to create broader models for agriculture.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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