{"id":57712,"date":"2024-09-23T03:00:35","date_gmt":"2024-09-23T11:00:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=57712"},"modified":"2024-10-21T05:47:50","modified_gmt":"2024-10-21T13:47:50","slug":"beyond-farm-to-table-how-chefs-can-support-climate-friendly-food-systems","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/09\/23\/beyond-farm-to-table-how-chefs-can-support-climate-friendly-food-systems\/","title":{"rendered":"Beyond Farm to Table: How Chefs Can Support Climate-Friendly Food&nbsp;Systems"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><iframe class=\"lazyload\" id=\"ad-auris-iframe\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 100px; border: none; display: none;\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\" data-project-id=\"7DUxg4MzDyLhEIKgrDUD\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><script src=\"https:\/\/cdn.jsdelivr.net\/npm\/ad-auris-iframe-distribution-nextgen@latest\/location-href-script.production.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p><em>This is the first article in a five-part series about restaurants and climate-change solutions, produced in collaboration with <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eater.com\/\"><em>Eater<\/em><\/a><em>. <\/em><\/p>\n<div class=\"post-image-caption align-right\"><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/240923-eater-partnership-logo-2024-climate-on-the-menu.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/240923-eater-partnership-logo-2024-climate-on-the-menu.jpg\" alt=\"eater and civil eats partner on climate on the menu, a new reported series.\"><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div><div class=\"post-simple post-capital-letter\"><p> At the height of summer, chef Rob Rubba and his team at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oysteroysterdc.com\/menus\/\">Oyster Oyster<\/a>, a vegetable-first restaurant in Washington, D.C., are preparing for the dwindling of food in the coming winter. It\u2019s a tedious but worthwhile process: drying mushrooms, vegetables, and herbs, making pickles and slaw, and preserving garlic blossoms and coriander seeds in airtight jars before these ingredients vanish with the end of the season.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>This may seem like an antiquated concern for chefs in an era of global food distribution systems, but it\u2019s an all-consuming preoccupation for Oyster Oyster, a restaurant named after two ingredients\u2014a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fisheries.noaa.gov\/national\/habitat-conservation\/oyster-reef-habitat\">bivalve<\/a> and a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pmc\/articles\/PMC10907667\">mushroom<\/a>\u2014known for their ecosystem benefits. This radically seasonal, regional restaurant sources its ingredients exclusively from the ocean, climate-adapted farms, and wild plants of the Mid-Atlantic.<\/p>\n<div class=\"pulled-sidebar pulled-sidebar-right\"><div class=\"pulled-sidebar-title\">Climate on the Menu<\/div><p>Read <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/climate-on-the-menu\/\">the stories<\/a> in our series with Eater:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/09\/23\/beyond-farm-to-table-how-chefs-can-support-climate-friendly-food-systems\/\">Beyond Farm to Table: How Chefs Can Support Climate-Friendly Food Systems<\/a> As global warming bears down, some restaurants are forging stronger bonds with regional food systems and regenerative farms.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/09\/30\/weathering-climate-shocks-how-restaurants-survive-supply-disruptions\">Weathering Climate Shocks: How Restaurants Survive Supply Disruptions<\/a> To overcome ingredient shortages and high food costs, some restaurateurs are rethinking their staple ingredients and strengthening their relationships with suppliers.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=58103&amp;preview=true\">Battling Meltdown: If You Can\u2019t Stand the Heat, Work for Change in the Kitchen<\/a> As climate change drives temperatures up, restaurant staff face uncomfortable, even unsafe conditions with no heat regulations to protect them. Some workers are taking matters into their own hands.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/10\/15\/invisible-waste-for-restaurants-composting-food-scraps-is-just-the-beginning\/\">\u2018Invisible\u2019 Waste: For Restaurants, Composting Food Scraps Is Just the Beginning <\/a>Cooking, refrigeration, air conditioning, water use, and packaging contribute to greenhouse gas emissions too. These restaurants try to tackle them all.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/?p=58518&amp;preview=true\">Table to Farm: Can Restaurants Serve Climate Education?<\/a>\u00a0For climate-conscious restaurants, helping customers understand the benefits of sustainably sourced food (and why it costs more) is key. But is tableside storytelling the way to go?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<p>\u201cToward the end of winter, it gets a little . . . . scary and sparse,\u201d admits Rubba. \u201cCome February, we have this very short farm list. It\u2019s just cellared roots and some kales. Making that creative takes a lot of mental energy.\u201d That\u2019s when Oyster Oyster draws heavily from its pantry of foraged wild plants and ingredients preserved from nearby climate-friendly farms. They lend the food \u201cbright, salty, acidic flavor pops throughout the winter\u201d that wouldn\u2019t otherwise be available, and give his food a joyful exuberance that <a href=\"https:\/\/www.washingtonpost.com\/magazine\/interactive\/2021\/best-restaurants-in-dc-2021\/\">one critic<\/a> described as \u201ca garden of good eating.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Rubba, who won the Outstanding Chef award from the James Beard Foundation in 2023, is one of many chefs reinvisioning the farm-to-table movement in the clarifying, urgent light of climate change. At a time when storms, fires, and droughts are lashing the planet with increasing severity, restaurants like Oyster Oyster source ingredients with a heightened due diligence around their climate and environmental impacts. In doing so, they\u2019re also recognizing that chefs can play a larger role in building food systems able to survive long into the future.<\/p>\n<h4>When Ingredients Do Harm\u2014or Good<\/h4>\n<\/div><div class=\"post-simple post-capital-letter\"><p> Oyster Oyster\u2019s approach to regional sourcing comes from Rubba\u2019s stark realization that many staples sold in grocery stores and used in most restaurants have wreaked havoc on the ecosystems and livelihoods of people in other countries. Many of the staple \u201ccommodities\u201d imported from overseas come from regions once covered by rainforests and other critical ecosystems that <a href=\"https:\/\/fundtheplanet.net\/rainforest-conservation\/the-importance-of-the-amazon-rainforest-for-climate-regulation-everything-you-need-to-know\/\">stabilize the climate<\/a>. <\/p><\/div><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>Take <a href=\"https:\/\/www.worldwildlife.org\/magazine\/issues\/spring-2017\/articles\/bittersweet-chocolate-s-impact-on-the-environment\">chocolate<\/a>, for instance. The majority of the world\u2019s cocoa is sourced from West Africa, often harvested by children on vast plantations linked to widespread <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2023\/may\/22\/cocoa-planting-is-destroying-protected-forests-in-west-africa-study-finds\">deforestation<\/a>. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.worldwildlife.org\/industries\/sugarcane\">Sugar<\/a> comes with its <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2023\/08\/08\/a-new-podcast-takes-on-sugar-subsidies-in-the-farm-bill\/\">problems<\/a>, too. Even when grown in the U.S., the burning of sugar cane emits large amounts of earth-warming carbon dioxide, while dusting communities with toxic ash. Also, these foods require fossil fuels to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.carbonbrief.org\/food-miles-have-larger-climate-impact-than-thought-study-suggests\/\">transport them<\/a> across the ocean and then throughout the U.S. to warehouses, grocery stores, and restaurants. Rubba also avoids domestic foods that have a large environmental toll. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vox.com\/future-perfect\/23738600\/un-fao-meat-dairy-livestock-emissions-methane-climate-change\">This<\/a> includes meat, a major driver of earth-warming methane pollution, accounting for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2021\/sep\/13\/meat-greenhouses-gases-food-production-study\">60 percent<\/a> of food-related emissions.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 post-single-gallery\"><div class=\"post-image-caption post-image-caption-view3\"><div class=\"post-image-caption-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-oyster-gallery-1.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-oyster-gallery-1.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters and oyster mushrooms are the stars of the show at Oyster Oyster. (Photo credit: Rey Lopez)\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-oyster-rob-rubba.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-oyster-rob-rubba.jpg\" alt=\"Rob Rubba at Oyster Oyster.\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-pyster-gallery-3.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-oyster-pyster-gallery-3.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted asparagus at Oyster Oyster with ramps, crispy potato, radish and a Virginia peanut broth infused with Thai basil oil. (Photo credit: Rey Lopez)\"><\/a><\/div><div class=\"post-caption\"><p>Oysters, along with oyster mushrooms, are the namesake ingredients at Oyster Oyster, which is helmed by chef Rob Rubba. At right: roasted asparagus with locally foraged ramps, crispy potato, radish and a Virginia peanut broth infused with Thai basil oil. (Photo credits: Rey Lopez)<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 col-md-9 post-single-left\"><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>With a bit of due diligence, Rubba has found local substitutes for all these ingredients.\u00a0\u201cWe don\u2019t use a lot of sweeteners in our food, but we source a really good maple syrup from Pennsylvania that is sometimes reduced down to a maple sugar,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p>He and his team use alternatives to other staples, too: They source vinegars from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.keepwellvinegar.com\/\">Keepwell Vinegar<\/a> in Pennsylvania, which relies on sweeteners like honey, maple syrup, fruit, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bonappetit.com\/story\/sorghum-syrup\">sorghum<\/a> from nearby farms to prepare vinegar from scratch. They get their salt from <a href=\"https:\/\/henlopenseasalt.com\/\">Henlopen<\/a>, a flaky sea salt from the Delaware coast. They source sunflower and canola oil from Pennsylvania farms. For spices, they work with foragers to gather and preserve Northern spicebush, a shrub native to the eastern U.S. with a delightfully versatile flavor, both fruity and peppery at once. They use a dash of this spice instead of pepper, mixing it with ginger and chiles for a hit of complexity and warmth.<\/p>\n<p>And, just because food is raised locally doesn\u2019t mean it\u2019s grown with climate-friendly practices. \u201c[The farmer] could be spraying with every insecticide, pesticide, fertilizer, and drive a big, stinky diesel truck into my city and sit outside idling for 20 minutes while he unloads all his plastic containers into my restaurant, right?\u201d says Rubba.<\/p>\n<div class=\"post-quote\"><p>Many staples used in restaurants have wreaked havoc on ecosystems and livelihoods.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>This has prompted Rubba to develop deeper relationships with the farms in his network, including an interview process to understand how the food is produced before he buys from a particular farm. Although he sources organic produce, USDA organic certification isn\u2019t his biggest requirement\u2014he\u2019s more interested in the actual farming methods. <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/08\/05\/17-food-and-ag-approaches-to-tackling-the-climate-crisis\/\">Certain farming practices<\/a> and crop varieties can help farms adapt to the erratic, intensified weather patterns and disasters shaking the foundation of U.S. agriculture. <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2023\/01\/13\/op-ed-regenerative-farms-weathering-california-atmospheric-river-unprecedented-rainfall\/\">Healthy soil can act like a sponge<\/a>, easily absorbing water during intense flooding and retaining water during times of drought. Some approaches, like <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2023\/08\/29\/can-agroforestry-breathe-new-life-into-carbon-markets\/\">agroforestry<\/a>, can directly fight climate change by drawing down planet-warming carbon.<\/p>\n<p>Rubba visits all the farms that supply the restaurant, asking about their <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2073-4395\/12\/2\/436\">crop rotations<\/a>, soil health practices, and how the farmworkers are treated. \u201cI love to see the operation, how they do things, what it\u2019s like, and who works there,\u201d he said. \u201cI don\u2019t want to serve food that someone labored over and wasn\u2019t paid correctly for.\u201d<\/p>\n<h4>Origins to Table<\/h4>\n<\/div><div class=\"post-simple post-capital-letter\"><p> Other climate-conscious restaurants have adopted a similar approach of thinking deeply about the origins of the food they serve. At<a href=\"https:\/\/cafecarmo.com\/\"> Carmo,<\/a> a tropical restaurant and cultural space in New Orleans, building the knowledge and relationships necessary for ethical, regenerative sourcing has been a lifelong project for the restaurant\u2019s co-owners and chefs, Dana and Christina do Carmo Honn. They\u2019ve forged relationships with Gulf Coast shrimpers and Indigenous tribes in the Amazon to support traditional, ecological food systems. These relationships also give each ingredient a layered story rooted in culture, place, and geographies. <\/p><\/div><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>\u201cWe\u2019re in it for the relationships,\u201d said Dana Honn. \u201cThe whole idea of farm-to-table has always been so important, but what I realized is that we\u2019re trying to do origins-to-table\u2013we\u2019re trying to tell the story of where our food came from.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 post-single-gallery\"><div class=\"post-image-caption post-image-caption-view3\"><div class=\"post-image-caption-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-tiradito-gallery-1.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-tiradito-gallery-1.jpg\" alt=\"Tiradito, a Peruvian-style sashimi of thinly-sliced daily catch. (Photo credit: Dana Honn)\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-gallery-2.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-gallery-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe Carmo co-owner Dana Honn.\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-gallery-3.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-cafe-carmo-gallery-3.jpg\" alt=\"Acaraj\u00e9, black-eyed pea fritters stuffed with vatap\u00e1, a paste of ground cashews, onions, peanut, peppers, and coconut. (Photo credit: Dana Honn)\"><\/a><\/div><div class=\"post-caption\"><p>Tiradito, left, is a Peruvian-style sashimi. Center: Cafe Carmo co-owner Dana Honn with a fresh catch. Beiju de Tapioca, right, features crispy Amazonian tapioca topped with peach palm hummus and dabs of black tucupi (reduced fermented cassava juice). (Photo credits: Dana Honn)<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 col-md-9 post-single-left\"><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>Chefs can be part of the next chapter of this story, not only by telling the history of a food but also by helping build a sustainable market for its future. This is part of the inspiration behind the Honn\u2019s project <a href=\"http:\/\/originsamazon.org\">Origins: Amazonia<\/a>, the result of a decades-long relationship formed with Juruna Indigenous communities in the state of Par\u00e1, Brazil, whose livelihoods and traditional food systems were upended by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/environment\/2014\/dec\/16\/belo-monte-brazil-tribes-living-in-shadow-megadam\">a megadam<\/a>. The project is an ambitious, <a href=\"https:\/\/originsamazon.org\/the-project\">multidimensional<\/a> effort to tell the story of the violent destruction of biodiversity and Indigenous land, while also helping support a market for traditional Juruna foods like cassava, which allows the communities to cultivate them once more.\u00a0By focusing on the richest source of biodiversity in the world\u2014one that affects the entire planet, where\u00a0 deforestation has <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cfr.org\/amazon-deforestation\/#\/en\">eradicated at least 20 percent<\/a> of the rainforest\u2014the Honns hope to help their customers understand what\u2019s at stake there, and by extension, everywhere.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIf there are more people engaged in production of ancestral foods, they actually begin to consume those foods again,\u201d said Honn about the Juruna communities. Many of their traditional plants, like manioc, are also highly adapted to the environment and climate, cultivated over thousands of years. Carmo has been supporting the renewal of these foodways, in part, through a <a href=\"https:\/\/originsamazon.org\/dinners\">dinner series<\/a> partly sourced from the Juruna (along with fresh ingredients from the New Orleans area) that also functions as a fundraiser. The money is returned to the Juruna peoples to help restore the agroforestry systems that have long sustained them.<\/p>\n<p>Honn has developed a similar approach to supporting a more sustainable market for Louisiana\u2019s shrinking fishing industry, which has been <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2023\/06\/20\/cheap-imports-leave-us-shrimpers-struggling-to-compete\/\">eroding for decades<\/a>. The local industry is struggling to compete with cheap imported seafood, which currently accounts for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.seafoodsource.com\/news\/supply-trade\/university-study-finds-us-could-become-independent-of-seafood-imports\">the majority of seafood<\/a> sold in the U.S. Many New Orleans chefs find it easier to rely on cheaper, imported seafood, readily available through major restaurant distributors like Sysco or Restaurant Depot that source from around the globe. Yet the reliance on imported seafood\u2014at the expense of local seafood\u2014can come with steep consequences.<\/p>\n<div class=\"post-quote\"><p>\u201cSeafood processing houses, they just cut the filet off and throw the carcass in the bin. You have the collars and the cheeks and the pectoral fins and the ribs and everything else that could literally just be cooked and put on a plate.\u201d <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>For instance, shrimp farms in other countries are routinely linked to <a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2024\/04\/17\/the-shrimp-on-your-table-has-a-dark-history\/\">labor abuses<\/a> and the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mongabay.com\/environmental_degradation_shrimp.htm\">destruction of mangroves<\/a>\u2014a coastal ecosystem critical for adapting to climate change by building carbon-rich soil and buffering against sea-level rise. To address this, Honn has been working with a group of chefs, fishers, and other experts to build back Louisiana\u2019s seafood economy, including shrimp, by developing a more sustainable, local supply chain. They\u2019re developing a program called <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chefsbrigade.org\/post\/full-catch-program-more-value-for-fishers-restaurants-and-diners\">Full Catch<\/a>, a set of protocols for harvesting, transporting, and distributing fish from the Gulf of Mexico, including cutting down on food waste by selling and marketing the whole fish.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen you go to seafood processing houses, they just cut the filet off and throw the carcass in the bin. You have the collars and the cheeks and the pectoral fins and the ribs and everything else that could . . . literally just be cooked and put on a plate,\u201d said Honn. \u201cWe <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/cafecarmo\/p\/Cvp3SSFMzfC\/?img_index=1\">sell it every night<\/a> at Carmo and run out of it every night. Really, people love it.\u201d<\/p>\n<h4>Supporting Climate-Conscious Farms<\/h4>\n<\/div><div class=\"post-simple post-capital-letter\"><p> One of the challenges of this sustainable approach to sourcing is that it can be unpredictable, without a year-round guarantee of ingredients. <\/p><\/div><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>Many farmers don\u2019t grow a fixed amount of each crop every year; instead, they <a href=\"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/article\/10.1007\/s13593-018-0526-2\">experiment<\/a> and innovate with different crop plans, the varieties of crops grown, methods of building soil health and minimizing fertilizer use, and other variables. In other words, climate-friendly farming can be a bit messy and unpredictable\u2013a system that is designed to be more responsive to climate disruptions and ecosystem fluctuations, building long-term stability, resilience, and<a href=\"https:\/\/phys.org\/news\/2022-06-long-term-climate-friendly-crop-yields-farm.html\"> high yields<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>The restaurants that support these kinds of \u00a0farms also tend to be highly adaptable, adjusting their menu to reflect the needs of farmers. They source according to the schedule of the crops growing nearby, the waning and waxing seasons. For some chefs, this means keeping in constant touch with farms to know when their crops will be ready, and then adjusting their menu accordingly\u2013rather than relying on a predictable production schedule.<\/p>\n<p>Isaiah Martinez, the chef and owner of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.yardyrumbar.com\/\">Yardy Rum Bar<\/a>, a Caribbean restaurant in Eugene, Oregon, says he keeps close tabs on local farms. \u201cI\u2019m asking them, \u2018When are your peppers going to be in season? When are melons going to be in season? When are you going to have different cucumber varieties? When will you have stone fruit?\u2019\u201d He admits that he\u2019s a bit competitive about this, too; he wants to be the first chef that farmers call when a new crop is ready to be delivered, so he builds strong relationships with them.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI create a relationship where [farmers] feel like they have to tell me first,\u201d he said. \u201cThey\u2019re giving me the first handful of perfect peaches, and I\u2019m putting it on my menu.\u201d This approach is also good for farmers: The peach grows according to its own timeline, and the chef is enthusiastically waiting for it as soon as it is ready. He changes his menu usually every three to four weeks, while making smaller tweaks on a daily basis. \u201cWhen carrots are not very good, we can do beets, and when beets are not very good, we can do collards.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 post-single-gallery\"><div class=\"post-image-caption post-image-caption-view3\"><div class=\"post-image-caption-wrapper\"><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-rum-bar-gallery-1.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-rum-bar-gallery-1.jpg\" alt=\"Isaiah Martinez in action for an event spotlighting Black food, sustainability, and inequality in food culture. (Photo courtesy of Yardy Rum Bar)\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-rum-bar-gallery-2.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-rum-bar-gallery-2.jpg\" alt=\"Yardy Rum Bar's signature chicken & waffles with seasonal fruit, maple syrup, seasonal jam, and peppa sauce. (Photo courtesy of Yardy Rum Bar)\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-run-bar-gallery-3.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/09\/20240923-beyond-farm-to-table-yardy-run-bar-gallery-3.jpg\" alt=\"Yardy Rum Bar's menu. (Photo courtesy of Yardy Rum Bar)\"><\/a><\/div><div class=\"post-caption\"><p>Isaiah Martinez of Yardy Rum Bar prepares a dish for an event spotlighting Black food, sustainability, and inequality in food culture. Center: Yardy Rum Bar&#8217;s signature chicken and waffles with seasonal fruit, maple syrup, seasonal jam, and peppa sauce. Right: Yardy Rum Bar&#8217;s menu. (Photos courtesy of Yardy Rum Bar)<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/section><\/div><div class=\"row\"><section class=\"col-xs-12 col-md-9 post-single-left\"><div class=\"post-simple\">\n<p>For peppers, herbs, lettuces and gem beets, Martinez goes to Red Tail Organics, a certified organic vegetable farm along Oregon\u2019s Mohawk River that focuses on the often overlooked edges of the farm. Red Tail \u00a0plants<a href=\"https:\/\/civileats.com\/2023\/02\/14\/the-edges-matter-hedgerows-are-bringing-life-back-farms\/\">\u00a0hedgerows<\/a>\u00a0of elderberries, Oregon Grape trees, and\u00a0 Cascara trees, native plants that serve as a habitat for wildlife while helping sequester carbon in the soil. They\u2019ve also planted Pacific willow, California incense-cedar, Western red cedar, Ash trees, and Alders along the river that cuts through the farm. Known as a riparian buffer, this prevents erosion, stabilizes the soil, and can absorb storm water, helping the farm adapt to more erratic weather.<\/p>\n<p>Martinez also sources some ingredients from <a href=\"https:\/\/hummingbirdwholesale.com\/\">Hummingbird Wholesale<\/a>, a local distributor in Oregon focused on building a market for regional organic farms that are sustainable in the truest sense of the word. \u201cWe have a big, audacious goal that organic becomes the norm in agriculture, as opposed to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nbcnews.com\/id\/wbna13050427\">2.5 percent<\/a> [of U.S. food sales] that it is currently,\u201d said Stacy Kraker, the company\u2019s director of marketing. Hummingbird does this by acting as the missing link between the area\u2019s organic farms, retailers, and restaurants, building a regional supply chain that chefs that quickly tap into. In pursuing what it calls \u201cdistributor supported agriculture,\u201d Hummingbird\u2014and chefs like Martinez, who support it\u2014are helping create a local foodshed that nourishes all the life that depends on it, from humans to soil microbes and pollinators.<\/p>\n<p>Hummingbird\u2019s sourcing team considers some of the regional climate stressors, such as prolonged <a href=\"https:\/\/www.drought.gov\/dews\/pacific-northwest\">periods of drought<\/a>, when seeking out farmers. \u201cSome of the farmers we work with are, in fact, dry-land farming, which means that they rely on rain to give them as much moisture as they\u2019re ever going to use,\u201d said Kraker. \u201cSo, they\u2019re intentionally choosing to grow crops in the regions that can handle long periods without any rain.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>While Martinez deeply values building direct relationships with farmers, Hummingbird Wholesale allows him to confidently source from nearby organic farms for some ingredients, sparing him a bit of time and research in what can be a lengthy process.<\/p>\n<p>A chef\u2019s vigilant, knowledgeable sourcing can lead to cherishing certain ingredients\u2014and using less of them. Oyster Oyster\u2019s Rob Rubba thinks some foods are best reserved for special occasions, including his restaurant\u2019s namesake bivalve.<\/p>\n<p>His oysters come from Chesapeake Bay, which has lost\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.fisheries.noaa.gov\/topic\/chesapeake-bay\/oyster-restoration\">nearly all<\/a>\u00a0of its <a href=\"https:\/\/www.umces.edu\/oysters\/history\">once-abundant<\/a> oyster population due to reckless harvesting techniques like dredging. Although Rubba buys from farmers dedicated to sustainably raising Bay oysters, he still sources them in moderation. Part of the idea is simply not taking too much from the earth, especially for ingredients that have historically been extracted like they are an infinite resource.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI think we have to look at [these oysters] as a luxury,\u201d he said. \u201cIt doesn\u2019t mean that they should be limited out of a sense of elitism. I just think in how we consume them\u2014we should just be a little more grateful for them when we do get them.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class='ctx-module-container ctx_default_placement ctx-clearfix'><\/div><span class=\"ctx-article-root\"><!-- --><\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This is the first article in a five-part series about restaurants and climate-change solutions, produced in collaboration with Eater. This may seem like an antiquated concern for chefs in an era of global food distribution systems, but it\u2019s an all-consuming preoccupation for Oyster Oyster, a restaurant named after two ingredients\u2014a bivalve and a mushroom\u2014known for [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1028,"featured_media":57719,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4368,4146,43538,3259],"tags":[],"coauthors":[11198],"class_list":["post-57712","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business","category-climate","category-climate-on-the-menu","category-food-and-farm-labor"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.6 (Yoast SEO v25.6) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>For These Chefs, \u2018Farm to Table\u2019 Means Climate-Conscious Food Sourcing | 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